Explore North West Queensland, where old fossils rock and adventure comes wrapped in geological wonders.
“I’ve found something,” Rick says, wiping dirt from his prehistoric marine treasure.
But we wait for word from our guide, Kevin Petersen.
“It’s definitely something,” Kevin confirms, grinning. “It’s coprolite.”
Rick’s beaming. For a second.
“You found fossilised poo.”
That announcement could have put a dampener on our sense of discovery during this Dig at Dawn tour, but we keep chipping away because we might find whatever it was that did that poo!
We’ve come to Richmond in outback Queensland to dig for fossils.
The 40m-deep Eromanga Sea once covered this region which is now part of the Dinosaur Trail.
Who knew squatting in the dust, chipping away at layers of rock with a chisel and hammer could be so much fun?
Kevin is a bit of a rock star when it comes to fossil finds
Like many of us, he came to Richmond not knowing much about the area but curious about what could be unearthed.
His first find, unlike our poo, pipi shells and fish scales, was significant; he dug up a dinosaur bone.
It’s now on show, with more of his world-recognised discoveries, at Kronosaurus Korner, Richmond’s museum which boasts Australia’s largest collection of marine fossils.
However, fossils are not the only treasure found in Queensland’s interior.
We’re on a 3,000km road trip from Cairns through scrubland and grazing country in the State’s North West, north to the Gulf of Carpentaria and back to Cairns.
Cane fields and tropical rainforests quickly give way to avocado and mango plantations across the Atherton Tablelands, then a mixture of scrub and pasture and a few elegant wind farms. Cattle are the one constant – often on the roads – so we’re always on alert.
Our accommodation included a 4WD with roof-top tent.
The Archway at Undara Lava Tubes.
We’ve already been wowed at Undara Lava Tubes.
Thousands of microbats fly out of the lava tubes around sunset to feed and if it’s warm enough, snakes hang from trees, hoping to catch a bat for dinner.
Thankfully, mid-June proves too cool for the snakes, but the bats don’t disappoint.
I never thought I’d say this, but I really like these thumb-size night dwellers.
Their sheer numbers darken the dusk skyline but thanks to a very sophisticated sonar system, not one bumps into us.
The experience gets a big tick along with the Archway Tour which goes deep into the cathedral-size tunnels carved out by molten lava about 190,000 years ago.
The Kennedy Developmental Road leads to the underrated Porcupine Gorge.
The views from cliff-top lookouts are stunning but if you’re feeling fit enough to tackle the steep, 2.4km walk to the bottom, the reward is a swim in the pristine creek at the base of the Pyramid.
Once we hit Hughenden, The Overlanders Way takes us west to Richmond and Julia Creek Caravan Park for a soak in their famous artesian baths.
Picture lying back in clawfoot baths, soaking in salts (and sipping bubbles if you like) while the sunset creates a kaleidoscope of colours across the sky.
Cloncurry is next with the John Flynn Museum paying tribute to the man responsible for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.
Thousands of microbats fly out of the lava tubes around sunset to feed and if it’s warm enough, snakes hang from trees, hoping to catch a bat for dinner.
Thankfully, mid-June proves too cool for the snakes, but the bats don’t disappoint.
I never thought I’d say this, but I really like these thumb-size night dwellers.
Their sheer numbers darken the dusk skyline but thanks to a very sophisticated sonar system, not one bumps into us.
The experience gets a big tick along with the Archway Tour which goes deep into the cathedral-size tunnels carved out by molten lava about 190,000 years ago.
The Kennedy Developmental Road leads to the underrated Porcupine Gorge.
The views from cliff-top lookouts are stunning but if you’re feeling fit enough to tackle the steep, 2.4km walk to the bottom, the reward is a swim in the pristine creek at the base of the Pyramid.
Once we hit Hughenden, The Overlanders Way takes us west to Richmond and Julia Creek Caravan Park for a soak in their famous artesian baths.
Picture lying back in clawfoot baths, soaking in salts (and sipping bubbles if you like) while the sunset creates a kaleidoscope of colours across the sky.
Cloncurry is next with the John Flynn Museum paying tribute to the man responsible for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.
Carolyne on the Hard Times Mine Tour.
Then it's onto Mt Isa, the commercial hub of the North West, still thriving thanks to mining operations.
Two experiences you shouldn’t miss here are the Bush Tucker Tour, where Matthew Ned shows how the Aussie bush is also a pantry and a pharmacy, and the Hard Times Mine Tour, which offers a glimpse into the lives of underground miners.
Our journey backtracks to Cloncurry, detouring to the former Mary Kathleen Uranium Mine and Clem Walton Park with watefront camping on Corella Dam, before turning north along the Matilda Way towards the Gulf of Carpentaria.
If you’ve been this way before, you’ll get a shock at Quamby Pub.
Built in 1860 as a customs house, the pub was at the heart of a bustling railway village between Cloncurry and Normanton, catering to cattle and mining operators.
Three years ago, it was in ruins.
Now, thanks to Nigel and Karen Sheiles, and the help of locals and tourists, it’s full of life again and a great place to stay.
The revamped Quamby Pub is worth a visit.
The Gulflander train ready to leave Normanton.
Normanton is famous for the Purple Pub and Krys, the life-size model of the biggest crocodile ever caught in the Top End. It’s scary how big it is.
It’s also the gateway to the Gulf and the sleepy coastal town of Karumba where relaxing, fishing and blazing sunsets are legendary.
Normanton is also home to the historic Gulflander train, which winds its way across the flood plains to the old goldfields of Croydon.
Train fans will love the five-hour trek, or you can share a ticket and swap places at Blackbull where they serve morning tea.
From Croydon, we pick up National Highway 1 turning off to Georgetown and Forsayth and Cobbold Gorge – the 'baby' of the North West geological wonders.
Just 10,000 years old, she’s young, curvy, and stunningly beautiful with the smoothest 'skins' thanks to a silica layer that hides any erosive blemishes.
Stand-up paddle boarding offers a serene glide down the waterway… if you’re blessed with the balance gene.
If not, it’s a constant giggle and a cool dip.
If you’re like me and must focus so hard on not falling in that you miss the scenery, there is also a gentle boat tour and easy hike around the gorge.
The tranquil waters of Cobbold Gorge.
Talaroo Hot Springs is a relaxing last stop
It’s a caravan park and natural healing centre.
An Indigenous guide leads you to the springs, explaining how they were found and named. Then, you can soak in the soothing hot waters.
You can also book a private hot tub.
It’s the perfect time to reflect on all the 'ways' we’ve seen outback Queensland from the Great Inland Way and Overlanders Way to the Matilda Way, plus the highways, developmental roads and dirt tracks.
We’ve been over, around, through and even into the heart of some of the most beautiful landscapes.
And we’ve found a place where old things rock.
This old fossil feels right at home!
The writer was a guest of Tourism and Events Queensland.
The route
Day 1: Cairns to Mareeba, Atherton via Kuranda Ranges, Innot Hot Springs, Undara Lava Tubes
Day 2: Undara to Porcupine Gorge, Hughenden via Kennedy Developmental Road
Day 3: Hughenden to Richmond on The Overlanders’ Way (Barkly Highway)
Day 4: Richmond to Julia Creek – still on the Barkly
Day 5 & 6: Julia Creek to Mt Isa – still on the Barkly
Day 7: Mt Isa to Cloncurry – back on the Barkly
Day 8: Cloncurry to Karumba – via The Matilda Way (Burke Developmental Road)
Day 9: Karumba to Normanton – back on Burke Developmental Road
Day 10: Normanton to Georgetown, Forsayth and Cobbold Gorge – National Highway 1 (Gulf Developmental Road) then Forsayth Road and North Head (dirt) Road
Day 11: Cobbold Gorge to Talaroo Hot Springs – back to National Highway 1 then left on Vanlee Road
Day 12: Talaroo Hot Springs to Lake Barrine, then Cairns via Gillies Ranges
Where to stay
We travelled in a hired 4WD with two roof-top tents –a kind of his-and-hers situation if you don’t get along so well. In our case, we pop the two tents up and use both mattresses in the one tent to make it more comfortable.
Assembling and dismantling the tents is easy but a pain because you can’t leave any bedding in the tents when closing them. It just won’t fit.
So, checking out different accommodation along the way is bliss.
- Discovery Parks Undara: The quirky train carriages are old and creaky, but they're all the more charming for it. They’re full of character (and really comfy beds).
- Allen Terry Caravan Park, Hughenden
- Lakeview Caravan Park, Richmond
- Julia Creek Caravan Park
- Sunset Tourist Park, Mt Isa
- Cloncurry Oasis Caravan Park
- Quamby Pub: Stay the night in a room or van site and enjoy the Outback Pub atmosphere
- Normanton Tourist Park
- Karumba Point Sunset Caravan Park has on-site vans if you don’t feel like pitching the tent
- Cobbold Village: All sorts of accommodation available
- Talaroo Hot Springs: Try an eco-tent with its private baths
Top photo: The rugged landscape at Porcupine Gorge.